Hidden Peak

Gasherbrum I - Hidden Peak

The first references of Gasherbrum I exist as early as 1861 by Lt. H. H. Godwin Austen. The mountain height was determined during a period 1889-1929, while it was photographed for the first time also by an English expeditioner M. Conway, during this time the mountain was named "Hidden Peak" due to its remoteness and sharp pyramid formations.

Geographical position: Greater Karakoram, Baltoro Mustagh
Longitud: 76¡ 42E.
Latitude: 35¡ 43N.
Height: 8068 m.
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Gasherbrum I - Hidden Peak
Gasherbrum I

The first attempt to climb Hidden Peak was made 1934 by an international expedition, the first to succeed to the top was done July 14 th 1958 by an American expedition - Andrew Kauffman and Pete Schoening (USA).

"The 14 Giants"

Hidden Peak is amoung the peaks that have been called " The 14 Giants".
Nr Moutain Meters Feet Country
1 Everest 8848 29028 Nepal/Tibet
2 K2 8611 28250 Pakistan/Kina
3 Kangchenjunga 8586 28169 Indien/Nepal
4 Lhotse 8516 27940 Nepal/Tibet
5 Makalu 8463 27766 Nepal/Tibet
6 Cho Oyu 8201 26906 Nepal/Tibet
7 Dhaulagiri 8167 26795 Nepal
8 Manaslu 8163 26781 Nepal
9 Nanga Parbat 8125 26660 Pakistan
10 Annapurna 8091 26545 Nepal
11 Gasherbrum I 8068 26470 Pakistan/Kina
12 Broad Peak 8047 26400 Pakistan/Kina
13 Shisha Pangma 8046 26307 Tibet
14 Gasherbrum II 8035 26360 Pakistan/Kina

Hidden Peak - also called Gasherbrum I and K5

Mountain range: Himalaya
Massive: Karakoram, Baltoro Mustagh
Position Lat. 35¡ 43N,
Long. 76¡ 42E, Pakistan
Height: 8068 meters

More on Himalaya...
More on Karakoram...
More on Pakistan...

Hidden Peak - Special dates...

1861, 1887 Lt. H. H. Godwin Austen and Lt. F. Younghusband, individually give out the first references to Gasherbrum I.
1889-1929 Gasherbrum I is measured and photographed by Brittish and Italien explorers. M. Conway coins the expression Hidden Peak, in regards to the mountains pyramid shape, to beable to differ it from Gasherbrum II.
1934 An international expedition under the guidence of Swiss alpinist G.O. Dyhrenfurth conducts a thorough exploration of Hidden Peak. I.H. Ertle and A.Roth climb along the southwestern side up to about 6300m.
1936 Logistic problems and strike among the sherpas forces a france expedition, led by H. De Segogne, to abort at 6900m (south side).
1958 The first successful climb to the top of Hidden Peak is completed by an American expedition under the supervision of N. Clinch and P. Schoening. July 5 P. choening and A.Kauffman reach the top by following the southeastern ridge and Urdok Comb.

The final part of the climb is difficult with extreme cold and very deep snow, the members of the expedition wish they had brought along skiis and snow shoes.

1975 As a two-man expedition with only 12 carriers (sherpas) to the base camp. R.Messner and P. Habeler august 10, climb along the north side to the top. The climb is done according to the classical alpine style and is completed without oxygen.
1977 The fourth expedition to the top of Gasherbrum I is done by a two man team existing of A. Stremfelz and N. Zaplotnik. They are the first to reach the top via the southwestern ridge.D. Breger disappears following an attempt to reach the top alone.
1980 A French expedition is the fifth to reach the top and is also the first to climb the south ridge.
1981 A Japanese expedition completes the sixth attempt.
1982 G. Sturm, M. Dacher and S. Hupfauer from a German expedition reach the top by following a new route along the north side. From a French-Swiss expedition, under the leadership of S. Saudan, 5 people, there amoungst Saudan and his wife (as first woman) reach the top.Saudan skiis back to the base-camp from the top. This is the first decline from a 8000m high mountain.
1983 A Swiss expedition successfully climbs 3- 8000m mountains in a row. Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak. A groupe existing of 9 members, E. Loretan, M. Reudi and J.C. Sonnenwyl climb all 3 peaks in classic alpine style.

Today there are over 6 different ways to the top and just as many varieties.

Swedish expeditions
Swedes have had/or have several expeditions in Himalaya. The most well known are the following: Metallänk
1997 Hidden Peak!
  Shisha Pangma
1996 Mt. Everest without oxygen
1993 K2
1991 Mt. Everest - from the north side
1990 Mt. Everest - from the south side
  Mustagh Tower
1987 Mt. Everest - first attempt
1981 First person above 8000m.
1973 First expedition to Himalaya.

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